Following the Minister for Health Simon Harris’s 2019 statements regarding his intentions to make caloric information on all food service menus (including restaurants, cafes and canteens in the country) the law – and the intense backlash from chefs that followed – the debate has now been reopened.

And the Government has released an online consultation form for food businesses on the matter.

As part of the Government’s Obesity Policy and Action Plan 2016-2025, Minister Harris believes mandatory caloric information included on menus will encourage Irish diners to make more informed and healthy choices.

His opinions are backed by findings published in September 2019 by the Economic and Social Research Institute, which reported a 19% decrease in calories consumed by diners who saw caloric information displayed on their lunch menus.

Additionally, in 2012 the Food Safety Authority of Ireland reported that 92% of consumers would welcome seeing calories included on restaurant menus.

'Nanny-statism at its best'

While it’s true that consuming fewer calories is an essential aspect of fat loss, the question remains; does lower calorie consumption automatically equate to a healthier lifestyle?

Many chefs and food professionals believe labelling menus with caloric information is a blanket solution that will add significant work and cost to an industry already fraught with physical and financial stress. Restaurants Association of Ireland CEO Adrian Cummins lashed out at the Government’s proposed legislation, calling it “nanny-statism at its best” and maintains that implementation of this law would cost the state tens of millions of euro.

“The Department of Health have it in their heads that they are going to defy the will of the hospitality industry, bring this legislation in and be the first country in the world to be able to police it – even though every other country that tried to bring it in has failed in doing so,” he says.

Logistical issues

Cummins feels that, irrespective of any industry feedback, the Government will be pressing forward with this legislation.

Using the phone app MenuCal is one way the Government suggests food business owners calculate calories for menu items, but this brings up other concerns and complications, such as the extra cost and time it will take for chefs to regularly update the caloric information on their menus.

“I’ve seen MenuCal,” Cummins says. “I’ve tried to use it and it is the most archaic system I’ve ever seen. It doesn’t work for our industry.”

Another glaring issue, Cummins says, is how rural food businesses will be able to cope with the proposed legislation.

“What are the restaurants down in Bally-beyond, with no Wi-Fi and no internet going to do?” he retorts. “How will they use MenuCal?”

The tracking alternative

Education not legislation

Conor Spacey is the culinary director of FoodSpace Ireland; a business specialising in contract catering with a difference.

“FoodSpace was created almost four years ago out of the frustration of seeing what contract catering is like in Ireland,” he says.

“We identified a gap in the market where we can offer sustainable, seasonal Irish food with virtually no waste.”

A chef with nearly 30 years of industry experience, Spacey takes a balanced approach to the proposed legislation.

Executive chef at FoodSpace Ireland Conor Spacey.

“I’m not political in any way; I just don’t get why we’re looking at such an outdated system – which is what calorie counting is,” he explains.

“If you think about what calories actually are – it’s just a unit of measurement. It doesn’t take into account the quality of what you’re eating.”

Spacey uses the example of a 100-calorie donut and an apple. Both have the same amount of calories but, nutritionally, are completely different.

He believes that promoting menu provenance is a better approach to encouraging a healthy relationship with food.

“(Food provenance) leads to better nutrition,” he states. “We have 20 places from Donegal right down to Cork and we work with farmers in each region.

“Depending on the time of year; that’s what’s on our menus. If you’re eating seasonally, it’s automatically more nutritious.”

While Spacey can see the benefit of understanding caloric information, he believes the Government’s aim should instead be funding educational food programmes for schools and fixing the nutritionally deficient foods currently being served in hospitals.

Have your say

If you are the owner of a food business and would like to fill out the Government’s consultation form, it can be downloaded here.