We are on a different quality scale now. In my extreme youth, before common market entry, the Irish Government gave an export subsidy to get rid of butter to Morocco. Later on, when we joined what became the EU, Irish beef was sent by the thousands of tonnes into intervention cold stores and again, with the aid of export refunds, this time paid by Brussels, sent to countries outside of Europe. In both these cases of butter and beef, the Irish product was a classic commodity and regarded as such. How times have changed.

Last week, we reported on how European Commissioner for Agriculture Phil Hogan was in favour of a special EU designation of origin classification for Irish beef from the suckler herd. We already have the equivalent in place for Kerrygold butter, which is owned by Ornua, a co-op acting on behalf of Irish farmers. The brand is the market leader in Germany, the largest-selling imported butter in the US and is selling at a significant premium which comes back to Irish farmers. But the quality reputation surrounding Irish food is not benefiting all Irish producers. It is time for the Department of Agriculture, Food and the Marine to stand back and assess its role. I am told that the Department can draft legislation specifying under what conditions a food or drink product can be classified as Irish. It is outrageous that well over half the grain used in the booming Irish whiskey sector is maize. There is already legislation in place from the Department specifying what conditions must be met before a whiskey can be categorised as Irish, among them are that it must be distilled in Ireland. It is now appropriate to legislate for extra conditions to apply. A sensible place to start would be the proportion of Irish grain that must be used. Similarly, in the case of Irish infant formula, there should be a minimum proportion of domestic ingredients before it can be designated as Irish. The example set by the Glanbia-Kepak dairy-beef linkup (see page 33) should serve as a template.

The French growers who produce the champagne grapes are selling them to large multinational companies but they get a significant slice of the premium. As farmers, we will not get a share of the premium that our products command if we do not present a logical case for legislation that allows it to happen.

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