Usually, I keep heavy, cheesey bakes for the winter months. Lasagnes and baked cannelloni always go down well when the weather is cold, but for some reason, I always crave aubergine or chicken Parmesan in the summer.

It's probably because aubergines are in season, and they're in the supermarkets looking lovely at this time of year. Another reason? Even though the dish tastes meaty, the sauce itself is light and zingy, with a hint of spice from the chili flakes. Fresh, torn basil and chunky tinned tomatoes make the sauce taste almost salad-like, while the creamy mozzarella and nutty Parmesan add softness and depth. Combine that with the crunchy, fried pieces of aubergine (or, if you prefer, boneless chicken or veal) and you basically have the perfect summery bake and a real taste of Italy.

I used to get aubergine Parmesan in a sandwich at the St. Lawrence Market in downtown Toronto – though instead of mozzarella, they add a slice of provolone on the crispy aubergine. If you want to try that, I would recommend a floury bap or Waterford blaa for the bread. Don't assemble in a casserole dish, simply top the aubergine with the cheese and some of the tomato sauce. It's messy, but very worth it.

Aubergine Parmesan bake

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

For the tomato sauce:

2 400g tins chopped tomatoes

1 Tbsp good quality olive or rapeseed oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 red onions, finely chopped

2 anchovy filets, minced

1 tsp chilli flakes

1 tso dried oregano

2 Tbsp tomato puree

1 tsp sugar

Fresh basil, roughly chopped

Salt and pepper, to taste

For the aubergine Parmesan:

2 large aubergine, thickly sliced

250g fresh breadcrumbs

Salt and pepper, to taste

3 eggs, lightly beaten

100g plain flour

100g finely grated Parmesan cheese

500g grated mozzarella

Fresh basil, for garnish

Directions:

1. Slice the aubergine thickly and arrange in one layer on a platter. Sprinkle both sides of each piece of aubergine with salt and set aside (this will draw out the water, which you don't want).

2. In a large frying pan, make the sauce. Over medium high heat, sauté the onions and garlic in the oil until golden brown and completely soft. Add the chopped anchovy (optional if you want to keep the dish completely vegetarian) and tomato puree. Fry these ingredients together for one to two minutes.

3. Add the oregano and chilli flakes, then add the tinned tomatoes. Simmer the sauce for 45 minutes, until chunky and thick. Season with a pinch of sugar and salt and pepper. Fold in some torn basil and set aside.

4. Set up your breading and frying station. In three dishes, set up the breadcrumbs, flour and eggs. Heat a deep fat fryer (or a heavy bottomed pot with vegetable oil) to 180°C. Line a tray with paper towel and set aside.

5. Pat each piece of aubergine dry with some paper towel. Then, dredge each piece in the flour before dipping in egg and coating in breadcrumbs. Fry each piece of breaded aubergine until golden brown and crisp. Leave them on the lined tray, which will absorb the excess oil.

6. Assemble the aubergine Parmesan. Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a casserole dish, add 1/3 of the tomato sauce and top with half of the fried aubergine pieces. Spread some mozzarella over the top and finely grated Parmesan. Add some torn basil leaves, then top with the second half of the aubergine pieces. Spread the remaining sauce evenly over the top and then sprinkle the remaining mozzarella, followed by a generous amount of finely grated Parmesan.

7. Bake the aubergine Parmesan for 45 minutes, until the cheese on top is brown and bubbly. Let set for at least 30 minutes before attempting to slice. This is even better the next day, reheated. Serve with fresh pasta and torn basil.