Chainsaws are widely used on most farms in Ireland nowadays with the vast majority of owners using them for cutting firewood, clearing off bushes and light trees or even in some cases for windfalls and tree felling.
The safe use of a chainsaw is the single most important aspect in preventing a serious injury during operation.
Chainsaws by their design are for cutting wood. That ranges from felling to cutting into the required lengths, and finally processing into firewood.
Over the years, many manufacturers have tried to redesign the chainsaw, but due to the chainsaw needing to sink into a large tree trunk to do its job properly, any type of guard that hinders this leaves the saw unable to work as it should.
Chainsaw injuries
Chainsaws do not cut human flesh – they actually rip it asunder. This is due to the design of the cutting chain. There is a cutting tooth on each side of the chain which allows enough width for the chain and chain bar to easily glide into the wood as it cuts. When it comes into contact with the human skin, it leaves the same wide gash with jagged edges which can prove very difficult to repair and lead to massive scaring.
When you analyse the location of the injuries to the body from using chainsaws, it is clear to see the left side is the most vulnerable. This includes the left hand, leg and foot along with the head. This is because the chainsaw is designed for right-handed use only, ie your right hand is located on the throttle at all times, while the left hand is on the frame bar.
You cannot use a saw left-handed. You must learn to use it right-handed, otherwise you cannot use the saw at all.
Chain brake
The purpose of the chain brake is to stop the chain immediately. The chain brake is engaged with the back of your wrist or arm in the case where kickback occurs. Kickback is when the top nose of the saw hits the wood without the saw inserted in the wood. The top of the rotating chain is what’s called a pushing chain. When the nose of the chainsaw hits a sudden stop, in this case in coming in contact with wood, it kicks the saw chain bar upwards towards the operator’s face.
When holding the saw correctly, ie right-handed, the right arm will automatically apply the chain brake, causing the saw chain to stop before it comes in contact with the head or the left hand. The natural reaction here is to use the left hand to protect the face. Without the chain brake engaging this will lead to serious injury and lacerations. This is why the chainsaw is designed to only be used right-handed.
Chain catcher
Every saw should have an operational chain catcher. This is a device located under the cover of the chain sprocket at the bottom of the saw. It may be constructed of aluminium or plastic. The chain catcher is designed to catch the chain in the event of a chain snapping or breaking – it also stops the chain flying out in front of the saw, thus preventing injury to bystanders.
Chain tension
The vast majority of chainsaw operators work with a chain that is too loose. If you look in at the chain from the side of the saw and the chain sags below the chain bar, then it’s too loose. The recommended way to check chain tension is to place the middle of your arm on the chain brake handle and use your thumb and forefinger to pull the chain up. You should not be able to see the bottom of the link of the chain above the chain slot.
A loose chain will wear faster, it heats up more easily, and it’s more likely to get stuck in the wood and may snap easily. Always use the correct grade chain oil which is heavier and tackier oil that clings to the chain better, providing far better lubrication than conventional oils.
Sharpening the chain
Many chainsaw users leave their chains into local dealers for sharpening once in a while. This works fine until you hit an obstruction in the wood which will immediately destroy your edge. The most important rule in chainsaw use is to have a saw running correctly and with a sharp edge; if the edge becomes blunt it makes the job harder as you tend to push the saw through the timber instead of letting the saw do the work, thus causing fatigue and frustration.
Chainsaw operators really need to be able to sharpen their saw themselves on site. How often will depend entirely on what you meet in the wood or the ground around the work. Sometimes you may need to re-sharpen after every five minutes in rough conditions, whereas if cutting clean ash timber the edge may last all day.
Sharpening options include various electric grinding tools but may require electricity for use, making them a little awkward when on site. A correct-size file in a file holder is another cheaper option and will do an excellent job in three to five minutes for any saw while having the added benefit of being completely mobile without the need for electric power, only good old elbow grease.
Safety chain
Check your chain to see if you have a safety chain fitted. A safety chain eases the saw into the wood and is less likely to jump about. A safety chain visually has an additional link from the chain up to the raker. Always look for a safety chain when purchasing a new chain.
Raker gauge
As the chain wears down to halfway, you will need to use a raker gauge to file down the raker below the cutting tooth. This allows the tooth to take a nice clean shaving about the size of your nail on the little finger. If the raker is too high the saw will throw out dust instead of shavings. A bad edge will also do the same.
Fuelling the saw
Most chainsaws take a 50:1 mix of petrol and two-stroke oil, but it’s always recommended to check the user manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Do not overfill the saw, because petrol can destroy and perish the fuel pipes and rubber engine mounts if spilled on to them over a period of time.
Turn off the engine when refuelling for safety and take great care when using petrol as it is highly flammable. Do not smoke and stay away from naked flames. It is recommended to keep the refuelling location well away from any flammable substances in case of fire.
Basic saw handling
Holding the saw correctly is one thing, but the safe use of it is essential. Good habits and safe practices can prevent serious injuries. The chainsaw operator should hold the saw close to their body at all times. This gives strength and support to your arms and shoulders and is much safer in preventing kickback.
A good stance is very important for stability, using bent knees where possible for better stance and balance. The operator should never hold their head over the line of the chain. The head as a rule should be to your left side slightly. This is in case a chain breaks at the top and whips around, hitting the face/throat/neck area, which can cause serious injury.
Never use a chainsaw above shoulder height. It’s very heavy at that height and leads to fatigue, especially with larger chainsaws. Always try to place wood up on something at knee height or above to prevent bending and thus reducing back strain. Always ensure all timber is secured so that it does not slip or fly off while cutting. There are numerous innovative machines manufactured and available in Ireland to securely hold timber during cutting.
Personal protective equipment (PPE)
A simple rule when operating a chainsaw is gear up before you pick up the saw. It’s your first line of defence. That means full gear, including:
Chainsaw helmet/earmuffs and visor EN 252 /166/379/1371.Chainsaw pants EN 381-7.Chainsaw gloves EN 381-5.Chainsaw boots EN 345.Chainsaw jacket if working in a forestry situation EN 381-11.The PPE outlined above is by no means cheap, typically costing €400-€450, which is a big investment but will, if minded, last for many years and has the potential to save enormous medical fees in the event of an accident where PPE was not used.
Remember when purchasing chainsaw PPE to check for the safety information on the labels. Each piece of equipment carries a class and European Norm (EN) number. There is a golden rule – do not use a chainsaw without wearing the proper PPE. The potential for injury is so high without it.
Saw maintenance
The good chainsaw operator will clean down their saw every day, usually at the end of work. This involves cleaning the saw fully and removing the cover, especially where the oil lubricates the chain bar. Remove, inspect and clean the spark plug, ensuring not to tap it on a bench in case you close the gap, preventing the spark. The air filter is the next essential component for cleaning; some are washable while others need to be replaced when necessary.
Petrol can be used to remove oil and sawdust but remember to wear nitrile gloves when using. You can also use cleaning solutions instead of petrol. Clean out the chain bar track as it can build up with dust and pack solid, thus preventing the chain from sitting into place correctly. A burr can appear along the lower part of the chain bar caused by a loose chain. This will need to be filed off using a flat file. Make sure to place the file flat along the chain bar so as not to make an angle where the chain runs. If you are experiencing starting problems with your saw or if it is cutting out regularly, there is a fuel filter at the end of the fuel pipe in the tank which may need to be cleaned or replaced.
FRS training courses
FRS Training runs one-day FRS-certified and two-day QQI-certified chainsaw training courses nationwide. Each person brings along their own saw and as part of the training they will clean down and service their saws, sharpen the chain and clean the plug and filter along with all the components. They can be run on a local farm or local FRS Office – wherever is most suitable.
Cost is €120 per person FRS Certified.Cost €200 for QQI Certified.For more information contact Jim Dockery, national training manager, on 1890 20 1000 or 0505 31588.
Chainsaws are widely used on most farms in Ireland nowadays with the vast majority of owners using them for cutting firewood, clearing off bushes and light trees or even in some cases for windfalls and tree felling.
The safe use of a chainsaw is the single most important aspect in preventing a serious injury during operation.
Chainsaws by their design are for cutting wood. That ranges from felling to cutting into the required lengths, and finally processing into firewood.
Over the years, many manufacturers have tried to redesign the chainsaw, but due to the chainsaw needing to sink into a large tree trunk to do its job properly, any type of guard that hinders this leaves the saw unable to work as it should.
Chainsaw injuries
Chainsaws do not cut human flesh – they actually rip it asunder. This is due to the design of the cutting chain. There is a cutting tooth on each side of the chain which allows enough width for the chain and chain bar to easily glide into the wood as it cuts. When it comes into contact with the human skin, it leaves the same wide gash with jagged edges which can prove very difficult to repair and lead to massive scaring.
When you analyse the location of the injuries to the body from using chainsaws, it is clear to see the left side is the most vulnerable. This includes the left hand, leg and foot along with the head. This is because the chainsaw is designed for right-handed use only, ie your right hand is located on the throttle at all times, while the left hand is on the frame bar.
You cannot use a saw left-handed. You must learn to use it right-handed, otherwise you cannot use the saw at all.
Chain brake
The purpose of the chain brake is to stop the chain immediately. The chain brake is engaged with the back of your wrist or arm in the case where kickback occurs. Kickback is when the top nose of the saw hits the wood without the saw inserted in the wood. The top of the rotating chain is what’s called a pushing chain. When the nose of the chainsaw hits a sudden stop, in this case in coming in contact with wood, it kicks the saw chain bar upwards towards the operator’s face.
When holding the saw correctly, ie right-handed, the right arm will automatically apply the chain brake, causing the saw chain to stop before it comes in contact with the head or the left hand. The natural reaction here is to use the left hand to protect the face. Without the chain brake engaging this will lead to serious injury and lacerations. This is why the chainsaw is designed to only be used right-handed.
Chain catcher
Every saw should have an operational chain catcher. This is a device located under the cover of the chain sprocket at the bottom of the saw. It may be constructed of aluminium or plastic. The chain catcher is designed to catch the chain in the event of a chain snapping or breaking – it also stops the chain flying out in front of the saw, thus preventing injury to bystanders.
Chain tension
The vast majority of chainsaw operators work with a chain that is too loose. If you look in at the chain from the side of the saw and the chain sags below the chain bar, then it’s too loose. The recommended way to check chain tension is to place the middle of your arm on the chain brake handle and use your thumb and forefinger to pull the chain up. You should not be able to see the bottom of the link of the chain above the chain slot.
A loose chain will wear faster, it heats up more easily, and it’s more likely to get stuck in the wood and may snap easily. Always use the correct grade chain oil which is heavier and tackier oil that clings to the chain better, providing far better lubrication than conventional oils.
Sharpening the chain
Many chainsaw users leave their chains into local dealers for sharpening once in a while. This works fine until you hit an obstruction in the wood which will immediately destroy your edge. The most important rule in chainsaw use is to have a saw running correctly and with a sharp edge; if the edge becomes blunt it makes the job harder as you tend to push the saw through the timber instead of letting the saw do the work, thus causing fatigue and frustration.
Chainsaw operators really need to be able to sharpen their saw themselves on site. How often will depend entirely on what you meet in the wood or the ground around the work. Sometimes you may need to re-sharpen after every five minutes in rough conditions, whereas if cutting clean ash timber the edge may last all day.
Sharpening options include various electric grinding tools but may require electricity for use, making them a little awkward when on site. A correct-size file in a file holder is another cheaper option and will do an excellent job in three to five minutes for any saw while having the added benefit of being completely mobile without the need for electric power, only good old elbow grease.
Safety chain
Check your chain to see if you have a safety chain fitted. A safety chain eases the saw into the wood and is less likely to jump about. A safety chain visually has an additional link from the chain up to the raker. Always look for a safety chain when purchasing a new chain.
Raker gauge
As the chain wears down to halfway, you will need to use a raker gauge to file down the raker below the cutting tooth. This allows the tooth to take a nice clean shaving about the size of your nail on the little finger. If the raker is too high the saw will throw out dust instead of shavings. A bad edge will also do the same.
Fuelling the saw
Most chainsaws take a 50:1 mix of petrol and two-stroke oil, but it’s always recommended to check the user manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Do not overfill the saw, because petrol can destroy and perish the fuel pipes and rubber engine mounts if spilled on to them over a period of time.
Turn off the engine when refuelling for safety and take great care when using petrol as it is highly flammable. Do not smoke and stay away from naked flames. It is recommended to keep the refuelling location well away from any flammable substances in case of fire.
Basic saw handling
Holding the saw correctly is one thing, but the safe use of it is essential. Good habits and safe practices can prevent serious injuries. The chainsaw operator should hold the saw close to their body at all times. This gives strength and support to your arms and shoulders and is much safer in preventing kickback.
A good stance is very important for stability, using bent knees where possible for better stance and balance. The operator should never hold their head over the line of the chain. The head as a rule should be to your left side slightly. This is in case a chain breaks at the top and whips around, hitting the face/throat/neck area, which can cause serious injury.
Never use a chainsaw above shoulder height. It’s very heavy at that height and leads to fatigue, especially with larger chainsaws. Always try to place wood up on something at knee height or above to prevent bending and thus reducing back strain. Always ensure all timber is secured so that it does not slip or fly off while cutting. There are numerous innovative machines manufactured and available in Ireland to securely hold timber during cutting.
Personal protective equipment (PPE)
A simple rule when operating a chainsaw is gear up before you pick up the saw. It’s your first line of defence. That means full gear, including:
Chainsaw helmet/earmuffs and visor EN 252 /166/379/1371.Chainsaw pants EN 381-7.Chainsaw gloves EN 381-5.Chainsaw boots EN 345.Chainsaw jacket if working in a forestry situation EN 381-11.The PPE outlined above is by no means cheap, typically costing €400-€450, which is a big investment but will, if minded, last for many years and has the potential to save enormous medical fees in the event of an accident where PPE was not used.
Remember when purchasing chainsaw PPE to check for the safety information on the labels. Each piece of equipment carries a class and European Norm (EN) number. There is a golden rule – do not use a chainsaw without wearing the proper PPE. The potential for injury is so high without it.
Saw maintenance
The good chainsaw operator will clean down their saw every day, usually at the end of work. This involves cleaning the saw fully and removing the cover, especially where the oil lubricates the chain bar. Remove, inspect and clean the spark plug, ensuring not to tap it on a bench in case you close the gap, preventing the spark. The air filter is the next essential component for cleaning; some are washable while others need to be replaced when necessary.
Petrol can be used to remove oil and sawdust but remember to wear nitrile gloves when using. You can also use cleaning solutions instead of petrol. Clean out the chain bar track as it can build up with dust and pack solid, thus preventing the chain from sitting into place correctly. A burr can appear along the lower part of the chain bar caused by a loose chain. This will need to be filed off using a flat file. Make sure to place the file flat along the chain bar so as not to make an angle where the chain runs. If you are experiencing starting problems with your saw or if it is cutting out regularly, there is a fuel filter at the end of the fuel pipe in the tank which may need to be cleaned or replaced.
FRS training courses
FRS Training runs one-day FRS-certified and two-day QQI-certified chainsaw training courses nationwide. Each person brings along their own saw and as part of the training they will clean down and service their saws, sharpen the chain and clean the plug and filter along with all the components. They can be run on a local farm or local FRS Office – wherever is most suitable.
Cost is €120 per person FRS Certified.Cost €200 for QQI Certified.For more information contact Jim Dockery, national training manager, on 1890 20 1000 or 0505 31588.
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