Over the last decade, changing consumer habits and a growing distrust of big food has given rise to the local food and artisan food movements. Increasingly, consumers want fresh, healthy and ethically produced ingredients sourced from local farmers and suppliers. Local food has also benefited from an increased consumer demand for traceability. Local, by definition, already satisfies the need for country or region of origin labelling that is important to so many consumers.

In all, 79% of Irish consumers believe that food produced locally is of a higher quality, while 77% are more confident in the safety of food produced in their local area. At present, there are more than 300 artisan or speciality food producers in Ireland with an output close to €500m per annum.

On the back of the demand for locally produced food, country or farmers’ markets have grown in popularity and enjoyed incredible success in recent years. In 2006, there were less than 100 food markets in Ireland but this has since grown to more than 150, turning over sales of approximately €10m per annum. These local markets can vary from farmers’ or country markets to lunch-time or weekend city markets, but they generally share the common aim of allowing producers sell their (usually local) produce directly to consumers in a traditional market environment.

Provenance is another reason why local food markets have become so popular. Consumers want authentic food, but the feeling of supporting your own and helping the local economy and local jobs is a genuine purchase trigger.

Food markets appeal to health-conscious consumers who have a strong link in their mindset between market produce and a healthier lifestyle. Markets can allow for bartering or sellers may throw in extra produce, giving consumers the impression they are getting good value. Visitors to food markets also take great pleasure in the theatre of food, in particular watching it being prepared or cooked in front of them.

While the growth in popularity of the farmers’ market has been extraordinary, there are challenges. Inclement weather, particularly with Ireland’s temperate climate, is always an issue for outdoor markets. Equally, consumers continue to have an emphasis on price and many view farmers’ markets as more expensive than supermarkets.

Impact

The growth in the popularity of the farmers’ market has a twofold benefit for Irish food producers. Firstly, it allows them a route to market to customers who are actively seeking speciality food or local, fresh produce and often willing to pay a premium for it. Secondly, food markets play an important role as incubators for start-up food companies, allowing them to trial new products/ideas in a low-cost and a low-risk environment.

In response to the growing trend of local provenance, the large multinational food companies are having to rework, reshape and re-imagine themselves to meet this demand for local, organic and fresh food.

However, as not every country has the capability (soil and climate) to be self-sufficient and provide for itself, there will always be a need for the large food companies to make up the difference. Countries with the resources and capacity for food production like Ireland will always have a role to supply parts of the world with the food they cannot produce.

Red tractor

The UK’s farm and quality food assurance scheme, Red Tractor, was established in 2000 and has been hugely successful in promoting provenance and British food to British consumers. Since its inception, more than 88,800 British farm enterprises have been recognised to Red Tractor standards. While this is great for British farmers, for the Irish farmer, the red tractor has effectively acted as a trade barrier for the export of live cattle from Ireland to the UK. Labelling laws that were brought in to promote free trade are now being used to promote individual member produce.