If Georgina is on the wall, you’re onto a safe bet,” I said to my husband as we pushed through the door of a small country pub in west Cork during the summer, the aroma of seafood chowder coming out to meet us.

That silver plague, Georgina Campbell’s stamp of approval, has been a guiding dining light for Irish people for the last 20 years. Last week, 26 food companies added the accolade to their door.