Ciara's Country Flavours: Georgina's top picks

If Georgina is on the wall, you’re onto a safe bet,” I said to my husband as we pushed through the door of a small country pub in west Cork during the summer, the aroma of seafood chowder coming out to meet us.

That silver plague, Georgina Campbell’s stamp of approval, has been a guiding dining light for Irish people for the last 20 years. Last week, 26 food companies added the accolade to their door.

In a time when we are tempted to be guided by online forums and subjective reviews, the Georgina Campbell accolades remain objective. Bookings are made under false names, meals are paid for in full and often the team will have visited and made their observations without the food establishment even knowing they were there.

This objective opinion, where everything from the welcome at the door to the food on the menu is considered, is why people put such trust in the name.

So who stood out from the crowd for Georgina this year? Speaking to Irish Country Living, she said: “There are so many to choose from, but one of the highlights has to be Vilma and Padric Conneely’s Tig Congaile in Inis Meain, which we awarded the Outstanding Guest Experience 2019. They just sweep the board in terms of the standard of the experience, and its also fantastic that they put the food offering of the islands on the map.

“Actually, this award was quite poignant for me as Myrtle Allen first told me about Vilma and Padric. She was travelling around the country, probably for Eurotoques or something, and said you must visit this place. Vilma and Padric were foraging and using seaweed in their dishes before anybody else. On that note, their sea vegetable soup is truly wonderful. Dinner here is really good and, even though less publicised than some of the restaurants on the islands, Vilma’s cooking is on a par with the best – and a stay here will linger long in the mind. Also what’s lovely is, about 10 years ago when they set up, we awarded them Newcomer of the Year. It’s great to see them going from strength to strength.

“Talking about pioneers, there is our Restaurant of the Year the amazing Strawberry Tree at BrookLodge – still to this day, as far as I know, Ireland’s only certified organic restaurant. Imagine they had this visionary concept in 1988 and they never stand still. Extraordinary, and a great inspiration to producers as well as others in hospitality.”

The winner of Newcomer of the Year 2019 goes to Brian McDermott, a chef who has long been a friend of Irish Country Living. Brian has worked in kitchens for many years, but put his beloved Moville in Donegal on the map when he opened Foyle Hotel.

“It’s a very special place. Everytime we go to Moville, there is such a feeling of history with its building and wide streets. Brian and his wife, Brenda, have put their heart and soul into this new venture and I think what they will do for the region will be fantastic. I can see many people making the trip to Donegal just to stay here.”

One award that is unique this year is in celebration of the European Region of Gastronomy.

“It’s such a fantastic achievement to have this recognition and we felt it was apt to highlight the work being done in the area. We highlighted Beechlawn Organic Farm in Ballinasloe for its constant commitment to high-quality produce, while Stefan Griesbach of Gannet Fishmongers is a legend in the west of Ireland – not only does he supply the best quality, best value in locally sourced, wild Irish fish, but he is also a great source of information about fish and the fish industry, and one of its proudest champions.

“Then there is the Twelve in Barna, which we awarded Best Hospitality. If anybody conjures up dedication to their area, its Fergus O’Halloran and his team.

“Everything he does is reflecting the region. That sense of place and the way he has always worked so closely with his suppliers, it really is worth celebrating.”

Georgina says standards are certainly on the rise, but that makes her job all the more difficult.

“Our food tourism goal is upping the game and we have to be aspirational and work towards it.”

Donnybrook Fair joins Musgrave’s

Musgrave’s is once again upping its numbers in terms of its brand profile. Donnybrook Fair may for many be a ‘special occasion’ shop, but it is now going to sit beside the likes of SuperValu and Centra in Musgrave’s HQ.

There has been no confirmation of how much the exclusive shop was acquired for and the deal is still subject to approval by the Competition and Consumer Protection Commission.

The family business with five food stores across the great Dublin region is owned by Joe and Mary Doyle, and it seems Joe will still be involved in the business, even after it changes hands.

“Musgrave is as passionate as we are about the heritage and future of Irish food. I was attracted by Musgrave’s values and its approach to investing in its brands and team for the long-term,” said Joe Doyle. It will be interesting to see if Musgrave’s plan to go national with the brand, introducing it to the more rural parts of the country, will happen.