Given that a chainsaw tends to be used only occasionally on many farms, servicing can often be overlooked.
Now that the weather has become more wintery and there will be a higher possibility of trees being blown over, it is a good idea to have the trusty farm chainsaw serviced and ready to fire into life at the pull of the cord.
Here, we outline a number of pointers and areas worth addressing before making that first cut for the winter period after a long lay-off.
Chain
If you find yourself leaning on the chainsaw to make it cut, this is a good indicator that the chain needs to be sharpened.
A good running saw with a sharp chain will effortlessly cut its way through the timber with the operator only needing to guide it. Otherwise, the saw will practically burn its way through.
Check the tension of the chain regularly.
Not only does it take longer, it uses more fuel and, over a prolonged period, will lead to chain damage, premature bar and sprocket wear and possibly overheat the engine.
A chain can instantly lose its edge if contact with clay or a stone is made.
Chains can be sharpened manually using a file or using an electric sharpener. An electric sharpener requires the chain to be removed from the guide bar.
These machines are bench-mounted and generally tend to cost in the region of €60 to €100. A simple round file is the most basic option.
However, there is a two-in-one tool available that sharpens both the cutters and depth gauge (rakers) simultaneously.
The benefit of a file is that it eliminates the need to return to the yard for sharpening.
It is important to identify the chain size, which in turn determines the size of the file needed – it’s not a one-size-fits-all scenario.
Sharpening the chain
Although it seems like a relatively simple job, sharpening a chain requires some skill and patience to perfect.
The two-in-one sharpening tool sharpens the cutters while lowering the depth gauges at the same time.
A chain that has been sharpened unevenly or at the incorrect angle will not cut straight. Each tooth has a witness mark on the top, which has two functions.
Firstly, it indicates the sharpening angle and, secondly, it marks the end of the chain’s life when filed to this point.
To sharpen, the file should be held level and at the correct angle. It then needs to be drawn from the inside of the cutter to the outside of the cutter.
Start by sharpening all the cutters on one side of the chain first, then file the cutters on the opposite side. It should be relatively easy to see where you started, as the sharpened cutters tend to be shiny with traces of filings.
Electric bench sharpeners tend to range from €60 to €100 in price.
For the purposes of an even cut, each cutter should receive the same number of strokes with the file.
As a chain is sharpened, its depth gauges need to be lowered. The two–in-one tool does this automatically, but those using a standard round file will need to follow with a flat file and lower the rakers separately.
Too low and the saw will be biting too much into the timber, causing it to jump, and if too high, the chainsaw will be unable to cut. If in doubt, it may be worthwhile having the chain professionally sharpened.
A replacement chain will cost in the region of €20 to €25, depending on brand and size. Chain tension is important – too tight and it will not move freely on the guide bar; too loose and it has the possibility of coming off the bar.
It should be tightened to the point that it is just resting against the bottom side of the guide bar. Run the saw for a few minutes and recheck the tension and adjust if necessary.
Chain oil
A general rule of thumb is that for every tank of two-stroke fuel used, a tank of chain oil should be used too.
It is vital that proper chain oil is used and not waste oil or even fresh engine or hydraulic oil. Burnt oil has a high sulphur content and, most importantly, reduces lubrication qualities.
Dedicated chain oil has the required cling qualities so that it is not flung off the chain as quick as it is applied.
On a separate note, but still in relation to oil, it is important that a quality brand of two-stroke oil is used and mixed with the petrol at the correct ratio.
Guide bar & chain brake
The guide bar is a wearing part and often a component overlooked. The track on which the chain runs needs to be kept clean if the chain oil is to lubricate the chain properly.
There is a bearing and sprocket at the top of each guide bar on which the chain rotates. This bearing should receive grease regularly.
The guide bar should be checked for wear and either turned or replaced depending on wear.
If the chain channel has widened enough that the chain has become loose, then it will need to be replaced or turned.
The top side will naturally wear more, so when wear just about becomes visible, turn it upside down to get that bit extra use out of it before replacement.
The chain brake is a vital safety feature on any chainsaw. It needs to be functional. It is simply a steel band around the saw’s clutch drum.
Once activated, the band tightens on the clutch drum and stops the chain immediately.
It is good practice to apply the brake every time the saw is left down, during sharpening or not in use.
A saw with no chain brake should not be used.
Air and fuel filter
The tank should be left empty over long periods. It is not uncommon for constituents of the two-stroke fuel mix ingredients to evaporate and leave behind a jelly-like substance.
The air filter should be blown out regularly.
If this occurs, then it may clog up the carburettor. In most cases, carburettor cleaner will resolve the issue, but the worst-case scenario is replacement.
The fuel filter should be replaced during every service.
Every service should see both the fuel and air filter replaced. For most, a fuel filter typically costs only €5 or €6. Between services, the air filter should be regularly blown out to remove the larger dust particles.
Air filters will generally cost no more than €15.
A blocked air filter will result in restricted power, as the engine is receiving too much fuel and not enough air. This will smother the engine and cause it to run rough or stall.
The filter should be removed and cleaned out regularly. All air vents on the saw must be kept clear and free from dust buildup.
Safety gear
Finally, it is important that all guards are intact and the correct personal protective equipment (PPE) is worn at all times.
The correct PPE gear should be purchased and worn.
This includes safety helmet with faceguard, ear defenders, safety steel-toe boots, gloves and chainsaw trousers.
Although full PPE gear may cost up to €500, it should be seen as an investment that will last for many years.
Spark plugs
Every service should also see the saw’s spark plug replaced.
A worn-out spark plug will leave the chainsaw hard to start or, in some cases, it will fail to start. A spark plug will only cost around €5.
Examine the condition of the old spark plug while replacing it at each service interval.
During replacement, examine the condition of the old spark plug. If the porcelain insulator is cracked, an electrode may be damaged or burnt.
A worn spark plug is a good indication of potential underlying issues. A grey colouring may indicate piston damage, whereby this grey colouration is a result of aluminum burning in the cylinder.
Given that a chainsaw tends to be used only occasionally on many farms, servicing can often be overlooked.
Now that the weather has become more wintery and there will be a higher possibility of trees being blown over, it is a good idea to have the trusty farm chainsaw serviced and ready to fire into life at the pull of the cord.
Here, we outline a number of pointers and areas worth addressing before making that first cut for the winter period after a long lay-off.
Chain
If you find yourself leaning on the chainsaw to make it cut, this is a good indicator that the chain needs to be sharpened.
A good running saw with a sharp chain will effortlessly cut its way through the timber with the operator only needing to guide it. Otherwise, the saw will practically burn its way through.
Check the tension of the chain regularly.
Not only does it take longer, it uses more fuel and, over a prolonged period, will lead to chain damage, premature bar and sprocket wear and possibly overheat the engine.
A chain can instantly lose its edge if contact with clay or a stone is made.
Chains can be sharpened manually using a file or using an electric sharpener. An electric sharpener requires the chain to be removed from the guide bar.
These machines are bench-mounted and generally tend to cost in the region of €60 to €100. A simple round file is the most basic option.
However, there is a two-in-one tool available that sharpens both the cutters and depth gauge (rakers) simultaneously.
The benefit of a file is that it eliminates the need to return to the yard for sharpening.
It is important to identify the chain size, which in turn determines the size of the file needed – it’s not a one-size-fits-all scenario.
Sharpening the chain
Although it seems like a relatively simple job, sharpening a chain requires some skill and patience to perfect.
The two-in-one sharpening tool sharpens the cutters while lowering the depth gauges at the same time.
A chain that has been sharpened unevenly or at the incorrect angle will not cut straight. Each tooth has a witness mark on the top, which has two functions.
Firstly, it indicates the sharpening angle and, secondly, it marks the end of the chain’s life when filed to this point.
To sharpen, the file should be held level and at the correct angle. It then needs to be drawn from the inside of the cutter to the outside of the cutter.
Start by sharpening all the cutters on one side of the chain first, then file the cutters on the opposite side. It should be relatively easy to see where you started, as the sharpened cutters tend to be shiny with traces of filings.
Electric bench sharpeners tend to range from €60 to €100 in price.
For the purposes of an even cut, each cutter should receive the same number of strokes with the file.
As a chain is sharpened, its depth gauges need to be lowered. The two–in-one tool does this automatically, but those using a standard round file will need to follow with a flat file and lower the rakers separately.
Too low and the saw will be biting too much into the timber, causing it to jump, and if too high, the chainsaw will be unable to cut. If in doubt, it may be worthwhile having the chain professionally sharpened.
A replacement chain will cost in the region of €20 to €25, depending on brand and size. Chain tension is important – too tight and it will not move freely on the guide bar; too loose and it has the possibility of coming off the bar.
It should be tightened to the point that it is just resting against the bottom side of the guide bar. Run the saw for a few minutes and recheck the tension and adjust if necessary.
Chain oil
A general rule of thumb is that for every tank of two-stroke fuel used, a tank of chain oil should be used too.
It is vital that proper chain oil is used and not waste oil or even fresh engine or hydraulic oil. Burnt oil has a high sulphur content and, most importantly, reduces lubrication qualities.
Dedicated chain oil has the required cling qualities so that it is not flung off the chain as quick as it is applied.
On a separate note, but still in relation to oil, it is important that a quality brand of two-stroke oil is used and mixed with the petrol at the correct ratio.
Guide bar & chain brake
The guide bar is a wearing part and often a component overlooked. The track on which the chain runs needs to be kept clean if the chain oil is to lubricate the chain properly.
There is a bearing and sprocket at the top of each guide bar on which the chain rotates. This bearing should receive grease regularly.
The guide bar should be checked for wear and either turned or replaced depending on wear.
If the chain channel has widened enough that the chain has become loose, then it will need to be replaced or turned.
The top side will naturally wear more, so when wear just about becomes visible, turn it upside down to get that bit extra use out of it before replacement.
The chain brake is a vital safety feature on any chainsaw. It needs to be functional. It is simply a steel band around the saw’s clutch drum.
Once activated, the band tightens on the clutch drum and stops the chain immediately.
It is good practice to apply the brake every time the saw is left down, during sharpening or not in use.
A saw with no chain brake should not be used.
Air and fuel filter
The tank should be left empty over long periods. It is not uncommon for constituents of the two-stroke fuel mix ingredients to evaporate and leave behind a jelly-like substance.
The air filter should be blown out regularly.
If this occurs, then it may clog up the carburettor. In most cases, carburettor cleaner will resolve the issue, but the worst-case scenario is replacement.
The fuel filter should be replaced during every service.
Every service should see both the fuel and air filter replaced. For most, a fuel filter typically costs only €5 or €6. Between services, the air filter should be regularly blown out to remove the larger dust particles.
Air filters will generally cost no more than €15.
A blocked air filter will result in restricted power, as the engine is receiving too much fuel and not enough air. This will smother the engine and cause it to run rough or stall.
The filter should be removed and cleaned out regularly. All air vents on the saw must be kept clear and free from dust buildup.
Safety gear
Finally, it is important that all guards are intact and the correct personal protective equipment (PPE) is worn at all times.
The correct PPE gear should be purchased and worn.
This includes safety helmet with faceguard, ear defenders, safety steel-toe boots, gloves and chainsaw trousers.
Although full PPE gear may cost up to €500, it should be seen as an investment that will last for many years.
Spark plugs
Every service should also see the saw’s spark plug replaced.
A worn-out spark plug will leave the chainsaw hard to start or, in some cases, it will fail to start. A spark plug will only cost around €5.
Examine the condition of the old spark plug while replacing it at each service interval.
During replacement, examine the condition of the old spark plug. If the porcelain insulator is cracked, an electrode may be damaged or burnt.
A worn spark plug is a good indication of potential underlying issues. A grey colouring may indicate piston damage, whereby this grey colouration is a result of aluminum burning in the cylinder.
This is a subscriber-only article
SHARING OPTIONS: