You could say that I first fell in love up a mountain.
Or – more truthfully – at the bottom of a mountain. After slipping most of the way down on my backside.
Somehow, 16-year-old me did not realise that jeans and runners were not appropriate attire for a youth club charity climb in the Kerry hills in December.
Fortunately, the only thing really bruised was my ego. And I wasn’t the only casualty, as the young fella beside me covered in muck confessed he too had taken a tumble, breaking his flask in the process. As a result, there was a distinct – though not altogether unattractive – whiff of Bovril about him.
Reader… I married him. Well, 13 years later I did. If anybody wants the rights for the rom-com, I’m open to negotiations.
We’ve trekked more than a few trails together since then, though never without a sturdy pair of boots, having learned that early lesson that you need to respect the mountains. And each time I reach a summit- sweating buckets – I’m reminded of a quote from the writer Sylvia Plath: “I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery—air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy’.”
So when the invite came from the Connemara Mountain Walking Festival, which takes place 3-5 May, to visit in advance, I really didn’t have to think twice.
Based in the village of Leenane on Killary Harbour – Ireland’s only true fjord – the festival enjoys a spectacular setting with access to some of the region’s most challenging mountains like Mweelrea and Derryclare for experienced walkers; with much to enjoy for those of us who prefer a more relaxed adventure.
Maria Moynihan walking the "Famine Trail" along Killary with committee members from the Connemara Mountain Walking Festival. \ Liam Gavin
Each walk is led by a qualified guide and covered by public insurance, with bus transport to/from the start/finish points and all facilitated with the support of local farmers, who kindly grant participants permission to cross their lands. Meanwhile the festival team is a tight group of locals united by their love of their region, with any profits pumped back into community projects.
Heading the committee is Martin Gavin, a former county chair of Mayo IFA and local sheep and cattle farmer, who sets the scene as we stand on the shores of Killary, still as a looking glass this morning.
“A lot of the other walking festivals, they probably wouldn’t have the access to the amount of high walks that we have,” he says, “and the other thing that you have here, which is apparently quite unusual in most of the mountain walks, you have either lakes or sea; you’re not just looking at another mountain.”
Today, Martin, his son Liam and fellow committee member Siobhan Bennett are leading us along “The Killary Fjord Famine Trail”, a “C- grade”/easy walk that is 11.5km long and accessible to most people with reasonable fitness. Starting at Rosroe Pier, the 19th century trail skirts along the southern shore of the Killary, past old stone walls, “lazy bed” potato ridges and tumbledown farmsteads.
Farm to Fork
Along the way, we meet Simon Kennedy of Killary Fjord Shellfish (killaryfjordshellfish.com), who has been growing mussels here since 1989. So, what makes a Killary mussel so special?
“I suppose we have the second-highest rainfall in Ireland and that brings down a lot of the nutrients from the mountains, along with the clear waters: there’s a lot of phytoplankton in the water and it gives a good, sweet mussel,” explains Simon, who offers “farm to fork” tours to groups who book in advance; though chances are you’ll sample them in one of the local restaurants too.
A short stroll on, we reach Killary Sheep Farm (killarysheepfarm.com), where fourth-generation farmer Tom Nee has diversified to offer sheep dog and sheering demos, traditional turf cutting and bottle feeding of orphan lambs to visitors to the area.
Tom is ably assisted by Sylvie, a border collie who expertly rounds up her flock for her rapt audience.
“She’s a big, massive outrun on her and she’s very gentle with sheep; there’s more power there if I need it, but she’ll stay way off the sheep, so that’s really good for gathering on the mountains,” explains Tom of Sylvie’s talents.
Reaching the end of our walk, a bowl of seafood chowder at The Fjord Café in Leenane is a welcome reward; though during the festival, walkers will be treated to tea/coffee and scones. Later that evening, we enjoy dinner at 814 Restaurant at Delphi Mountain Resort at the other side of the fjord, where you can choose two courses for €31 or three for €37.
Dining with a view at Delphi Resort. \ Julia Dunin
I try the Connemara smoked salmon, slow-braised Irish beef cheek bourguignon and black forest chocolate mousse; just to be thorough.
We sleep soundly that night at Delphi, but before we depart the next day, we experience Killary from another perspective on a 90-minute cruise on the “Connemara Lady”, which also boasts a cafe and bar onboard and hosts concerts later in the season. A family ticket for two adults and up to six kids under 10 costs €47 and there is a 10% discount if you book online (killaryfjord.com).
For Martin Gavin, it’s just another of the many unique experiences that should put Leenane – and the community here – on the map for more people to discover.
“Basically the walking festival is just to showcase the area really; and that’s what it does,” he says.
And when it comes to this beauty queen of Leenane, it’s easy to fall in love all over again…
A single-day ticket for the Connemara Mountain Walking Festival costs €35, while a weekend ticket costs €65. Early booking is advised as walks sell out quickly. Suitable footwear and clothing essential. For further information, visit connemaramountainwalkingfestival.com
We stayed as guests of Delphi Resort, a 15-minute-drive from Leenane. As well as a hostel and adventure centre, the resort also offers four star accommodation, dining and spa facilities. Festival packages include a special offer of a hostel bed from €15 per person per night. Meanwhile, there is limited availability of rooms in the hotel, with packages including two-night-stays from €404 per room based on two people sharing, bed and breakfast. Visit delphiadventureresort.com.
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You could say that I first fell in love up a mountain.
Or – more truthfully – at the bottom of a mountain. After slipping most of the way down on my backside.
Somehow, 16-year-old me did not realise that jeans and runners were not appropriate attire for a youth club charity climb in the Kerry hills in December.
Fortunately, the only thing really bruised was my ego. And I wasn’t the only casualty, as the young fella beside me covered in muck confessed he too had taken a tumble, breaking his flask in the process. As a result, there was a distinct – though not altogether unattractive – whiff of Bovril about him.
Reader… I married him. Well, 13 years later I did. If anybody wants the rights for the rom-com, I’m open to negotiations.
We’ve trekked more than a few trails together since then, though never without a sturdy pair of boots, having learned that early lesson that you need to respect the mountains. And each time I reach a summit- sweating buckets – I’m reminded of a quote from the writer Sylvia Plath: “I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery—air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy’.”
So when the invite came from the Connemara Mountain Walking Festival, which takes place 3-5 May, to visit in advance, I really didn’t have to think twice.
Based in the village of Leenane on Killary Harbour – Ireland’s only true fjord – the festival enjoys a spectacular setting with access to some of the region’s most challenging mountains like Mweelrea and Derryclare for experienced walkers; with much to enjoy for those of us who prefer a more relaxed adventure.
Maria Moynihan walking the "Famine Trail" along Killary with committee members from the Connemara Mountain Walking Festival. \ Liam Gavin
Each walk is led by a qualified guide and covered by public insurance, with bus transport to/from the start/finish points and all facilitated with the support of local farmers, who kindly grant participants permission to cross their lands. Meanwhile the festival team is a tight group of locals united by their love of their region, with any profits pumped back into community projects.
Heading the committee is Martin Gavin, a former county chair of Mayo IFA and local sheep and cattle farmer, who sets the scene as we stand on the shores of Killary, still as a looking glass this morning.
“A lot of the other walking festivals, they probably wouldn’t have the access to the amount of high walks that we have,” he says, “and the other thing that you have here, which is apparently quite unusual in most of the mountain walks, you have either lakes or sea; you’re not just looking at another mountain.”
Today, Martin, his son Liam and fellow committee member Siobhan Bennett are leading us along “The Killary Fjord Famine Trail”, a “C- grade”/easy walk that is 11.5km long and accessible to most people with reasonable fitness. Starting at Rosroe Pier, the 19th century trail skirts along the southern shore of the Killary, past old stone walls, “lazy bed” potato ridges and tumbledown farmsteads.
Farm to Fork
Along the way, we meet Simon Kennedy of Killary Fjord Shellfish (killaryfjordshellfish.com), who has been growing mussels here since 1989. So, what makes a Killary mussel so special?
“I suppose we have the second-highest rainfall in Ireland and that brings down a lot of the nutrients from the mountains, along with the clear waters: there’s a lot of phytoplankton in the water and it gives a good, sweet mussel,” explains Simon, who offers “farm to fork” tours to groups who book in advance; though chances are you’ll sample them in one of the local restaurants too.
A short stroll on, we reach Killary Sheep Farm (killarysheepfarm.com), where fourth-generation farmer Tom Nee has diversified to offer sheep dog and sheering demos, traditional turf cutting and bottle feeding of orphan lambs to visitors to the area.
Tom is ably assisted by Sylvie, a border collie who expertly rounds up her flock for her rapt audience.
“She’s a big, massive outrun on her and she’s very gentle with sheep; there’s more power there if I need it, but she’ll stay way off the sheep, so that’s really good for gathering on the mountains,” explains Tom of Sylvie’s talents.
Reaching the end of our walk, a bowl of seafood chowder at The Fjord Café in Leenane is a welcome reward; though during the festival, walkers will be treated to tea/coffee and scones. Later that evening, we enjoy dinner at 814 Restaurant at Delphi Mountain Resort at the other side of the fjord, where you can choose two courses for €31 or three for €37.
Dining with a view at Delphi Resort. \ Julia Dunin
I try the Connemara smoked salmon, slow-braised Irish beef cheek bourguignon and black forest chocolate mousse; just to be thorough.
We sleep soundly that night at Delphi, but before we depart the next day, we experience Killary from another perspective on a 90-minute cruise on the “Connemara Lady”, which also boasts a cafe and bar onboard and hosts concerts later in the season. A family ticket for two adults and up to six kids under 10 costs €47 and there is a 10% discount if you book online (killaryfjord.com).
For Martin Gavin, it’s just another of the many unique experiences that should put Leenane – and the community here – on the map for more people to discover.
“Basically the walking festival is just to showcase the area really; and that’s what it does,” he says.
And when it comes to this beauty queen of Leenane, it’s easy to fall in love all over again…
A single-day ticket for the Connemara Mountain Walking Festival costs €35, while a weekend ticket costs €65. Early booking is advised as walks sell out quickly. Suitable footwear and clothing essential. For further information, visit connemaramountainwalkingfestival.com
We stayed as guests of Delphi Resort, a 15-minute-drive from Leenane. As well as a hostel and adventure centre, the resort also offers four star accommodation, dining and spa facilities. Festival packages include a special offer of a hostel bed from €15 per person per night. Meanwhile, there is limited availability of rooms in the hotel, with packages including two-night-stays from €404 per room based on two people sharing, bed and breakfast. Visit delphiadventureresort.com.
Read more
'It's not the winning, it's the partaking for yourself'
Inspire series: I walked 500 miles of the Camino solo at 56
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